Other motors I have tested or got information on.

This is kind of a bad motor page.

Here I will try to save you guys some time and money in testing motors to use as a generator.
You can take mine and some of my helpful friends word for it, or feel free to try your own luck with these motors.

I know there are different models of motors made by the same company that made some of these below, so just because the one I tested failed does not mean that any motor made by the same company won't work.  It depends on how they were made and you must keep in mind that these motors we use were not designed to be generators, they were intended to be used as a motor only.

I will start with some tested scooter motors.

Not so good for a simple setup

The motor shown above is a part number MY1016.  It is made by United Motor as best I can tell anyway.  It is rated at 36 volts DC 11.5 amps at 2500 rpm.
Shaft 1/2" about 1" long and is a "D" style (flat on one side)

It will work in a direct drive as long as your average wind is 40 to 70 mph and you put a small rotor on it because the bearings are not going to last long with lateral thrust from a rotor pushing in on the shaft. 
It could be used in a gear up system running it at around 1500 to 2000 rpm.  If you did that you should see some decent output with it but may spend a bunch of money on gears and stuff.  How long would it last like that, who knows?

Not so good for a simple setup

This motor is rated at 24 volts DC 19 Amps at 2600 rpm.

It has the same shaft and output characteristics as it counterpart the MY1016
How long would it last if you geared it up.  Who knows?

Not so good for a simple setup

This is the MY1020 rated at 36 volts DC 27 Amps at 2500 rpm.

Once again lacks in bearings to handle lateral thrust from a rotor, and needs high rpm's to produce energy.  1/2" "D" style shaft.
Gear up only and who know how long it would last?

Good power "SHORT LIVED"

The above motor picture was sent to me with the question of will this Ametek motor work?  First of all it is NOT an Ametek motor.
I didn't have one but knew who to call to find out

I contacted a friend of mine who works for Pacific Scientific to find out what this motor was and what it can do.  This is what I was told.
It was built for use as a Tread Mill motor.   It has heavy bearings which would hold the lateral trust of a rotor BUT small winding that would burn up rather quickly at anything over 150 watts of output.
Break down should go something like this:
It should support about 150 watts for about 20 to 30 minutes before it will begin to burn the windings.  After about 45 minutes at 150 watts the windings will be just about finished off.
It can produce 350 to 500 watts but would be very short lived due to the small windings.  At 350 to 500 watts it is estimated that is would last about 15 minutes or less before the windings would crystallize and burn into.
I would pass on this one since small gusts of wind would put you well over its threshold.

DC Fan Motors

Either style "forget it"!

The above motors are 12 volt DC 2750 to 3600 rpm Permanent magnet motor designed as an automotive fan motors.  THEY ALL NEED A TON OF RPM'S and will do basically NOTHING for you!

I have spun all kinds of these types of motors.  Just figure this, if it was made to run a fan in your car it is not going to cut the mustard as a generator.  I don't care if you gear it up the output will not be more than 30 watts max.

Raw Tread Mill Motors

Not too bad if you can waterproof it and gear it up big time.

The above motor is a 110 volt DC 1.5 Amp at 5100 rpm.  There are a few different motors similar to this out there and I have had a couple to test.  They all seem to run out pretty much the same way.
Not too bad only if you gear them up.  Direct drive no way!
It has a 1/2 to 5/8" shaft with left hand threads.  You would think a perfect candidate for a downwind unit but has a couple of serious draw backs.  1. It takes a lot of rpm's so direct drive it out unless you have constant tornados or, hurricanes to drive it.  2. Once you seal it from water and dirt you shorten its life expectancy because of heat.
Recommended for gear up of 10 plus to 1 with a large rotor like the Tri-Nado Extreme in a low wind areas.  In high winds conditions furl it, disconnect it, or stop it somehow or you will cook them.  

More to come as I do testing or get the information from friends/customers. 


Read info on the disappearing Ametek line.

Back to Tips and Tricks